commented fashion shows

Análisis de desfiles de España y de otros lugare del mundo, con fotografías.

Haider Ackermann holds the tissue. París fashion week

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J.W.ANDERSON searches for a new language.

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James Long, a real collection.

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Eudon Choi, a little bit of Russia and a little bit of Christian Dior.

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Jil Sander and the effortless formality.

JIL SANDER, O/I 2013.
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Manuel Bolaño at 080 Barcelona.

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Catwalk styling.

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PARIS FASHION WEEK. Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe.

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PARIS FASHION WEEK. Balenciaga: accomplished promises.

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MILAN FASHION WEEK. Jil Sander F/I 2012-13

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LONDON FASHION WEEK. Peter Hansen and normality.

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LONDON FASHION WEEK. Cool air.

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New York Fashion Week. THE ROW F/W 2012-13

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CIBELES MADRID FASHION WEEK.Ego. Ixone Elzo F/W 2012-13

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CIEBELES MADRID FASHION WEEK.Martin Lamothe F/W 2012-13

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Haute Couture nowadays.

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080 BARCELONA FASHION. Manuel Bolaño Fall / Winter 2012

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080 BARCELONA FASHION. Miriam Ponsa Fall / Winter 2012

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080 BARCELONA FASHION. Karlotalaspalas Fall / Winter 2012

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Balenciaga, pre-fall 2012

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Madrid Fashion Week Cibeles. Ego. Ixone Elzo Man S 2012

The English version will be comming soon. Meanwhile, enjoy the pictures.
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Madrid Fashion Week Cibeles. Ego. Martin Lamothe S 2012

 

The English version will be comming soon. Meanwhile enjoy the pictures.

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New York Fashion Week. Gary Graham S 2012.

The English Version of this article will be comming soon. Meanwhile, enjoy the pictures and the video of the Fall 2011 colection.
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Street Style. 080 BARCELONA. Krizia Robustella Spring Summer 2012

LICK MY ICE CREAM BABY.
Krizia Robustella Collection, Man/Woman, Spring/Summer 2012

Pastel colors and prints with summery motifs for the aestival season.  Comfortable and casual sport outfits.  The mix in prints and fabrics contributes to the ambivalence of these clothes; thus, the use of cottons, elastic fabrics, or leather in jackets, shorts, or shoes, allows the the different uses of these garments to do sports, go to the beach, or out to the street.  The designer’s name, printed or embroidered, in large format, pop style, adds character and singularity to the design.  And so do as well the pendants, which look like candy for children.  These last are traits that emphasize a marked naif style.  It is this tendency toward spontaneity, toward whatever is fresh and open, that is this designer’s most attractive trait.

*Photographs by Spain Street Style
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Street Style.080 BARCELONA… Manuel Bolaño Spring Summer 2012

 

HOW TO MEND A BROKEN HEART?

This is the title of the Spring/Summer 2012 Collection by Manuel Bolaño, the young designer of Galician origins.
This is fundamentally a woman’s collection, occasionally accompanied by several masculine looks. Looks for a coquettish man who reminds us of the XIX century English dandy, who wears summer tweed-like fabrics or cottons with summery patterns over pastel palettes.
In contraposition to the jovial man, Manuel Bolano’s woman is crying black tears.  Perhaps it is the heart of the woman that needs mending.  In the first feminine looks the woman dresses in black – with some touches of color warning that there may be a possibility of alleviating the sadness in that heart – with a melancholy that evokes mourning, and clothes exhibiting sober tailoring, well finished and polished off.  Coats with meticulous stitching, raglan sleeves, and black fabrics flecked with pastels alternating with the solid black.  Through a special ability to mix fabrics, textures, and prints, the flowers, the wide stripes, the tailoring, and the complements, the woman recovers from her sadness bit by bit: short trouser – lose or very tight; apron overlays, or flower bouquets coming from under the clothes, or small skulls adhered to the fabric near the chest and not looking the part, since their colors are vivid.  Of particular interest is Bolano’s use of the bow.  You can find it in the man as well as in the woman in the form of a bow tie, and, moreover, in the woman the bow tie grows oversize and becomes a pretty tailoring form, elaborate, and original, which resolves a few garments in a very artistic form in spite of the complexity intrinsic to developing a design of these characteristics.  In this way, it looks as though the woman gets rid of her sorrows, although she goes on weeping.
This hopeful affliction to which Manuel Bolano has us accustomed leaves us with the sensation of having witnessed a quality show of considerable artistic content.
*Photographs by Spain Street Style

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¿ QUE FUE DEL MAESTRO?

En París, 6 de Marzo,

GIVENCHY OTOÑO 2011

¿ DÓNDE ESTÁ EL MAESTRO DE LAS CREMALLERAS DEL QUE DISFRUTAMOS EN LA PRIMAVERA 2011 ? Y, ¿ QUÉ FUE DE ESA MIEL EN LOS LABIOS QUE NOS DEJÓ RICARDO TISCI CON SU COUTURE PRIMAVERA 2011 ?

Si algo hay de interesante en el arte, y concretamente en la moda, es  la posibilidad de cambiar de registro algo que estamos acostumbrados a ver en un ambiente determinado, sacarlo de contexto y enriquecerlo con nuevas tendencias, nuevas técnicas, nuevos materiales… Así, la colección de Givenchy Primavera 2011 nos permitió disfrutar de este aspecto tan bello de la moda. Un elemento tan popular como la cremallera se convierte en protagonista; su uso no es  sólo para  el cierre de una prenda de sport . Es un elemento de adorno – como lo usaron los rockers en su día -, en prendas que casi parecen de alta costura,  llevado al extremo, consiguiendo un equilibrio a través de los tejidos y el corte de sastrería extremadamente moderno e innovador. A su vez, el manejo del estampado de leopardo, tan recurrente en las últimas temporadas, vuelve en esta colección de forma innovadora, sutil y protagonista a la vez, propia de un maestro.

Las colecciones de couture no tienen por qué estar relacionadas con las de prêt- à- porter, pero sí que   nos dejan espectantes… En este caso, la última colección de couture de Ricardo Tisci parecía prever otra cosa. Unos vestidos delicados y sexys a la vez, de aire oriental, con tejidos de ensueño – chifón, tul, organza – en una gama de colores lánguida, y unos tocados del inigualable Philip Treacy, nos transportan a una película futurística y dan rienda suelta a la imaginación.

Pues bien, nada de lo dicho anteriormente se relaciona con el prêt-à-pporter otoño 2011. La temática, panteras y flores, es representada de forma manida y simple, mediante la directa estampación de la imagen sobre el tejido. Las faldas  tubo,  y las grecas transportan a los años 80 de Versace, en versión ñoña y anticuada. Los complementos y la carcterización de las modelos, que acompañaban y cerraban de forma magistral los otros desfiles, en este,sin embargo, no hacen más que dar un estilo trasnochado a esta colección tan esperada.

 

 

 

 

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EMPIEZA EL ESPECTÁCULO

 

 

En París, 21 de Enero.JOHN GALLIANO, HOMBRE OTOÑO 2011
homeless, lord inglés, bailarín ruso o pirata…
…así de variada es esta colección.  Es colección de invierno, y como tal, en los looks “homeless”  las prendas se superponen una encima de otra sin importar el ancho o el largo.  Sastrería clásica se funde con patronaje oriental con total naturalidad. Comlplementos oversize para combatir la nieve ponen guinda a este hombre “barroco moderno”. Un hombre viril, saludable  y natural parece salir de una función de ballet clásico; medias, calentadores, gruesas chaquetas de materiales naturales y colores neutros. La caracterización de los modelos con maquillaje dramáticamente extremado  nos recuerda que se trata de un espectáculo, la moda como arte, un viaje onírico para deleitar nuestra vista.

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